Rabbit Cages

Rabbit romance: Rabbits blossom when they find a mate, just like people do. And like people, pairing needs to happen naturally. Don't force a companion on your rabbit, but give Cupid room to work.

Far and wide: A cramped rabbit is a crabby rabbit. Make sure your cage is big enough for your rabbit to stand up tall and stretch out long. Rule of thumb: get a cage four to five times bigger than your rabbit.

Born to run: Rabbits need room to run and play. Let them out for hilarious supervised fun in your house, or get an outdoor rabbit playpen and watch them jump, twirl, dig, and thrive.

Say what? Flip your head fast to one side, and your bunny might repeat the gesture back to you. In rabbit-speak this means "I'm really happy," and the response means, "I'm happy for you!"

Floor show: Bunnies naturally dig and nibble, but don't let them pick at your carpet. The fibers may be toxic. Save a rug, save a rabbit.

1. The right size of your indoor rabbit cage depends on how many rabbits you plan to have and how large the breed is. As a rule of thumb, the bunny cage should be at least four times bigger than your bunny. One small rabbit needs a bunny cage at least 30L x 30W x 14H inches in order to have enough room to hop around. No matter how large the bunny cage, bunnies still need a few hours to roam freely so they get enough exercise, social time, and exploring.

2. Rabbits are crepuscular, which means they sleep during the day and night but are ready to play at dawn and dusk. Your bunny will be happy to lounge in his bunny cage when you are at work or asleep, but let him out to run around while you get ready in the morning and are home in the evening.

3. Wire rabbit cages are easy to clean and sanitize. Wire floors can be uncomfortable, however, because rabbit feet don't have pads, so add a nice size piece of untreated lumber for your rabbit to sit on to relieve sore hocks. Your rabbit will also enjoy chewing on the wood.

4. Most rabbits take well to litter box training, so a bunny cage with a solid floor rather than wire will be easy enough to clean and easier on your bunny's sensitive feet. Consider adding grass or sisal mats to vary the surface and provide traction.

5. Even if your house rabbit is litter box trained and your house is suitably rabbit-proofed, your rabbit will still appreciate having a safe, cozy rabbit cage available as a den-like retreat. Add blankets, towels, paper to shred, and cardboard boxes so your bunny can create the perfect nest.

6. Make your rabbit's cage a fun place to be by adding treats and toys. Bunnies love baby toys like teething rings and rattles; just make sure they are made of hard plastic and can't be chewed or swallowed. Provide hunks of untreated wood and old phone books for safe chewing options.

7. Side doors allow your bunny to hop in and out on his own; side doors also allow you to reach in from the side to pick up your pet at his eye level, which may spook some bunnies. These bunnies would rather have a top-opening door so that you can reach in from above to scoop up your cuddly friend. Any door should have smooth edges or be covered with plastic guard strips so your bunny's fur doesn't get caught.

8. Stacking bunny cages are useful for housing multiple bunnies and keeping them separated. Each bunny cage will have its own removable litter tray under the floor. These bunny cages are usually metal and wire so they are easy to disinfect, making them the ideal choice for breeders or commercial rabbit owners.

9. An outdoor rabbit cage will keep your bunny safe while he explores his native wild habitat. You can place these on a swath of lawn so your bunny can play in the grass; just make sure you don't use any chemicals to treat the vegetation in that area.

10. Rabbit playpens with tall sides are great temporary indoor rabbit cages and can be used to introduce your rabbit to a room, or you can use them if you want to keep your bunny with you in a room that may not be rabbit-proofed.